Thursday, April 19, 2012

Is it what you expected?

Yes, it is, only more so! We'd read enough books and Blogs by Loopers to get the gist of what to expect as far as the rosy, big picture of Looping and the day-to-day down and dirty realities, so we started this venture with eyes opened, ready to roll! I marvel at the things that excite me and touch me. I find myself giddy from the sound of water slapping against the boat; all of my senses are so much more aware and alive. I love the clanking and jangling of boats on a dock; the rocking and swaying of The Zone as another boat passes; the faint taste of salty mist as we glide along the water. I don't think I'll ever not feel magical when I see Dolphins!

Street Sign in Beaufort, SC

My crying jags are not about cleaning or being homesick or fighting with Ross; they are just my reaction to being new at this. I get frustrated that I don't know more,and feel insecure, but I sure am seeing that each day I grow more experienced and further develop the skills needed. I know that in time, it will all be second nature. Ross guides me through it all (relatively) patiently, and occasionally we even learn something together.

When last we met... in St. Augustine...Ross & I were grizzly and in need of grooming!  We found a (scary) Barber Shop in the center of town for Ross, and a cute little salon, Small Indulgences, for me to get a pedicure and a haircut. Once deemed fit for the public, we further explored St. Augustine and prepared for our first visitor.

My brother Michael spent a few days with us on The Zone as he made his way south to visit our folks, his mom-in-law and son, Jake at UF. he also brought with him bountiful gifts of blessed items from Costco (THANK YOU MICHAEL & SUZIE!!) We enjoyed lots of laughs (and Matzoh), good meals (including an amaazing dinner at the beautiful Casa Monica Hotel's restaurant) and a surprise side-trip to Gainseville to see Jake in his element.   Looper Reality Moment: Michael also had the pleasure (NOT) of getting all nice and soapy, sudsy...just before we ran out of water.  His shower was delayed and he had to sit there/stand there for about 20 minutes until the tank was refilled.
Dinner at the Kingfish Grill, Camachee Cove Marina
St. Augustine, FL
St. Aug. Barber Shop

First Looping haircut!
LOOP LOOP LOOP!
Michael & Jake - Fraterday!
Delish!

Shave & a haircut...


From Hobbit to human in
45 minutes!

Passover on The Zone
Our next stop was Fernandina Beach on our way towards Savannah, GA.  We left the morning of Easter Sunday and about an hour and a half out, we snagged a pot (crab or shrimp) on our prop (or rudder?).  I googled what to do (I love the Internet!) and saw a suggestion to try to go in reverse gently...and it worked! Now, the Captain says he'd tried it successfully once before, but I like to think it was my (Google's) bright idea. As the day went on, Ross started to not feel well - chills, nausea, fever, aches - and yet our fearless hero at the helm got us through some of the trickiest waters we'd encountered yet, depth-wise. We slowly followed two sailboats through some severe shoaling and watched as one after the next they went aground (for moments - they maneuvered their boats back into the waters and were fine). We felt bad for them, and learned from their mistakes, as we made our way into deeper waters. We were grateful not to go aground ourselves.  We are finding more and more that most of us out here in Looperville are novices to some extent.

While anchored out, I nursed my Captain through the night as best I could, and in the morning he was much, much better! He told me we were headed to an anchorage at Jekyll Island, which is mile marker 666. I thought that was just asking for trouble!  The movie,"The Island of Dr. Moreau" came to mind...

At one point, the Coast Guard pulled up next to us, asked where we were headed, and told us to stand by for an escort as there was a naval exercise in progress.  We waited..and were then told to hurry it up!  I bet that's the first and last time the Coast Guard asks us to speed up. After our escort, I went below to the galley to make something for lunch. It was absolutely surreal. As I made English muffin-toaster-oven pizza (with basil & oregano from our little herb garden), I glance up to see the underside of the Jekyll Island Highway Bridge...wild!

We ended up anchoring in the much more pleasant sounding, Buttermilk Sound, which was calm and sweet even with the swarms of no-see-ums. As Ross was at the helm, I was in place at the bow giving hand signals to show the angle of the anchor chain in relationship to the bow. All of a sudden Ross saw my arms flailing wildly and wondered what I was doing and what signal I was trying to give him.  I was just trying to shoo-fly the flies!!

I just love anchoring out.  It's peaceful, the skies are beautiful at night, it's serene and picturesque.  But I always think we're further away from land than we are.  I get mesmerized by the birds and the sailboats and the stars, and all of a sudden I get jolted to reality by the sound of a car horn. Talk about buzz kill!

The next morning was cold and quiet as we headed for Savannah. We decided to stay at the Isle of Hope Marina. (The option was to stay at a marina whose review in one of our books included a reference to the move, "Deliverance"). We arrived at 5PM and did our routine of docking, checking in and cleaning the boat.  Despite the "flies", which turned out to be gnats, attacking us once again, we washed the boat and settled in. We were delighted to find the marina was full of Loopers in various stages of their journeys.

Sighted another Looper boat in Savannah!
The gold burgee signifies they've completed the Loop

We met Frank & Carrie on (ONCE AROUND), from CA who are on their way to completing their Loop, as well as Fred & Julaine from MI (BOREAS) who are on their 14th month of Looping and still loving it. I got high from their enthusiasm, and dizzy by the amount of tips and suggestions they freely, and way too quickly, imparted.  I couldn't write them down fast enough (and Lord knows I can't remember sh*t).  They were middle aged couples (younger than the average Loopers), and yet we all came from different planets on land.  All Loopers have common ground, no matter of socio-economic differences.  It's like the great equalizer.Boat size doesn't matter either.(Except to Ross).

We first explored Isle of Hope by bike. Just behind our marina was a gorgeous street of historic homes.
We were struck by the majesty and solemnity of the Live Oaks dripping with Spanish Moss.  They appear on the verge of breaking as they arch with such heavy looking branches. Riding through a long path as the leaves and moss of the trees on both sides almost completely block out the sky was enchanting on our way to and throughout Wormsloe Plantation. Click on the link to see much better photos and read some the history.
Southern Live Oaks with Spanish Moss
Entrance to Wormsloe Plantation
When we arrived at the marina, the Dock Master handed Ross his receipt as well as the usual packet information and key cards for bathrooms and laundry and such, and let us know that they have two loaner cars and that nearby they have a West Marine & a Piggly Wiggly.  I wish you could have seen his face. Apparently Ross had never seen, "Driving Miss Daisy" and didn't know that it is a chain of supermarkets in the South.  We've since been to yet another one in Beaufort, SC and Ross WISHES we got a Pig Card for discounts.

We went into Savannah and took a trolly tour of historic sites..
Laundry at IOH Marina

Yup, saw the bench in my favorite of
Savannah's Squares, Chippewa Square
We had a lovely lunch in the heart of Savannah's City Market at Belford's though Ross sat eyeing the pizza place across the way.  The tour guide had pointed it out saying it was the best pizza in Savannah.  Now Ross, who has had pizza in every major city of the free world, couldn't help himself.  As we left Belford's, he ran across the street and ordered a pie to bring back to the boat.


The Zone Sitting proudly!
Pizza to go!


Speaking of FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD.....I have to say, the best food we ate in Savannah, GA was Ross's pot roast, roasted potatoes and vegetables.
Mmmmmm...juicy goodness!

For those of you who wonder what in tarnation we eat on the boat, here are some other delights created by my multi-talented Captain, with me, his trusty (and incredibly blessed) sous chef cleaning, chopping and prepping::
Fresh off the fisherman's boat, Red Snapper with tomatoes & green beans
Beef Stew Perrone

Chicken parm


Laura's Vegie Supreme-O
Onto Beaufort, SC!
We had a gorgeous ride to Beaufort, a sweet, historic town filled with lovely folks and charming, historic sites.  We stayed at Port Royal Landing Marina. It was a small marina in a perfectly charming setting with a friendly staff.  Before we could finish our docking, we were met by a Looper wannabe who saw our burgee and was loaded with questions and stories of his own. LooperWannaBe-Tom, was nice enough and hungry for the Looping Life.  We hardly had all of our fenders hung and we learned that he was selling his home and then starting the Loop. We definitely identified with his excitement.

We spent our first day there, "chillaxing". See Ross chillax:
Sewing torn zippers

Fixing clogged toilet

I chose to do laundry, as my sewing and plumbing leave a lot to be desired.  I also cleaned the decks (basically, did anything possible to avoid getting involved with the toilet!)  Just when i thought it was safe, I hear Ross calling me and asking if I really loved him. Needless to say, on went the rubber gloves, I took a deep breath and headed in to the unknown to unclog.  Thankfully, it was less of a crisis than I imagined and once again, my handy Honey saved the day.

We did our bike exploration of Beaufort the next day, and had such a great time! Beaufort, pronounced, "Bew-fort", is charming, packed with history, and good food, and we ended our day sharing a swing by the water before heading back to the marina.
Miss Beaufort
The Barnyard Platter at a waterfront restaurant
Pulled chicken, pulled pork, brisket, beans, mac-n-cheese
And he wonders why the toilet gets clogged?!























We truly enjoyed our short stay in Beaufort, and would recommend to those travelling our route to take the time to see this charming town!

We are currently in Charleston, SC, enjoying tremendously this beautiful city. More next time, complete with some visitors making their way for a special celebration of Ross's upcoming birthday!